Season 2 Ep. 19 - The SPF Plot Twist

Was everything learned about SPF a lie? Or, was is outdated? And, is any of it important?

In this episode, Sam shares some new information regarding SPF and we really need to know. There is so much misinformation circulating online that is scaring consumers into not wearing sun protection. Sam shares she thoughts on where this misinformation is coming from. She also shares why she thinks the responsibility of the provider is so incredibly important. 

Whether the information is incorrect, outdated, or just an evolution of the industry, one thing is certain - you need to wear your sun protection.

Transcript

SPEAKER_00 0:07

Hey y'all, welcome to the skintrovert. I'm your host, Sam Bazile. We gotta talk, guys. So are we just gonna act like this is not happening? Are we just gonna ignore it, look away, move on? No. Here at The Skintrovert, we have got to talk about it. We've got to figure it out. And what am I talking about? I'm talking about the misinformation or the evolution or growth of information surrounding sun protection. And before I dig in, there is so much misinformation that is circulating online about sun protection. And because there's a lot of misinformation that is circulating, it is causing consumers to panic. It is causing them to stop using sun protection. But it's also causing actual providers to question what they've learned about sun protection. So we have to dive into this today. And if you are the consumer or the provider that thinks that sun protection is what causes cancer and not the sun, go on and see yourself out right now. I am not for you. This podcast is not for you, and certainly this episode is not for you. Sun protection is absolutely 100% needed now more than ever. Okay. Um, as someone who has experienced it personally with my family, I have seen what melanoma can do. I have seen how melanoma can destroy and end lives. Wear your damn sun protection.

unknown 1:44

Okay.

SPEAKER_00 1:45

There's that. And I'm not even gonna give that misinformation any more life because it's already done enough damage online. Watching people um first turn around and say that sun protection causes cancer, don't use it, but then they're like whipping up their DIY sun protection. Um, in my opinion, that could do more damage. Um, whipping that up in their kitchen and then putting it on. So then what is it, ma'am? Is it that it causes cancer or that no, no, just your recipe is okay? Girl, please get out of here with that. So I'm not even gonna give that life. That's not why I'm here today. Why I'm here today is I am actually intrigued. Um sometimes certain topics just my ears perk, and I'm like, hold on a minute. And it makes me question if what I learned was misinformation. Or maybe it's not misinformation, maybe it's just growth. I've talked about this on a previous podcast. Sometimes it's not always misinformation, sometimes it's just we're growing, and this industry is growing so fast, so fast, so fast, that I believe our education is not matching up. I think that's a real thing. And a lot of times, why you have providers that are just so frustrated because they feel like they can't get a grip. And that's why. So that's really what I want to talk about today. I want to be completely transparent and vulnerable and say, look, maybe what I was taught is incorrect. Or maybe you might say it's not incorrect, Sam. It's just growth or evolution. So stick around. I'm gonna share with you what I've learned about sun protection, and then I'm gonna share with you what I've been hearing online and what I've been looking into online. And hopefully it'll give you a little bit of inspiration to dig a little bit deeper too. Because in this episode, I am not going to admit that one or the other side is wrong or incorrect. I want to know what you think. So let's dig in. So, first, I want to talk about what I learned about sun protection. Okay. So I'll make it very simple and very basic. And again, this is what I learned. And before I say what I learned, let me clarify this. What I'm gonna share with you was not just taught to me by some random person that I had to trust was telling me the right thing. This is a textbook. You know, being taught as an aesthetician, we are taught with a textbook that has been approved with a specific curriculum. So this textbook is in existence and it's how we're taught and how we learn. So, what was I taught about sun protection? Well, sun protection is designed to protect us from ultraviolet radiation, okay? UV rays. These rays specifically that we need protection from are UVA and UVB rays. To make it very simple, UVA is what we've dubbed the aging ray. UVA ray is a little bit longer than the UVB ray, it actually burns down to the dermis. And why is this bad for us? Because what lives in the dermis? Collagen and elastin. So if you are burning all the way down with no protection to the dermis, what's gonna happen? You are going to destroy your collagen and your elasticity, which is proven because sun worshipers that don't protect their skin, they're looking a little rough out there. Okay? Y'all ever seen Magda from Something About Mary? Okay, see which that's that's what I mean, okay? Sun worshipers that don't protect start looking very aged prematurely. Okay, so that's UVA. UVB is a shorter ray. This burns to the epidermis. UVB is what we've dubbed the burning ray because it's a shorter ray, so it packs a harder punch. It's more compact, so it's gonna hit the skin a lot harder. This ray puts you at risk of skin cancer. So most sun protection products, no, all sun protection products in the market are going to give you UVA and UVB protection. This is what we call broad spectrum protection, and you get that from either sunscreen or sunblock, or otherwise known as sunscreen, which is your chemical portfolio, or sunblock, which is your physical portfolio. So let's first talk about your physical sunscreen options. So, first of all, physical sunscreens are natural minerals, okay? They're mine from the earth. And the way that we were taught is they physically block the rays from hitting the skin. So it's kind of like the way that a mirror reflects. It's going to reflect the ray from the skin. So that is how you're protected. And what is a physical ingredient that protects you? It is natural minerals that are mined from the earth. So titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These natural minerals, because they are mined from the earth and buffed down, they get bright white in the buffing process, which is why some physical sunscreen options, sun block options, have that white cast. So it's not always the best, like aesthetically pleasing option because of that white cast. And because of the little minerals, it's typically not in the sprays, the body sprays, because it clogs the pumps. So for aesthetic reasons, it's not always your first go-to because of that reason. But because it is a mineral, it is tolerated well in most skin types. It is giving you protection for gentle skin types. Also, it's better choice for melasma, acne, more problematic skin types. So while it's a better choice for most skin, some of the darker Fitzpatricks or the darker skin types don't necessarily love that physical protection because they end up looking ashy or lilac. No one wants to look ashy or lilac. So they end up kind of moving more towards the chemical sunscreen portfolio, the chemical sunscreen portfolio. I keep tripping myself up. So chemical. Chemical is a different way of protection. So the way that I was taught chemical protects you is the way that a sponge, it acts like a sponge, it absorbs the rays into the skin. Your skin expels it to heat and pushes it out of the skin. It turns it to heat and expels it from the skin. So it's kind of like catching it, throwing it back out. Catching it, throwing it back out. And that's how it protects. Well, it's a great option because it doesn't leave any type of overcast. Chemical sun protection ingredients include avabenzone, octocylate, octocryline, homosylate. If you see those ingredients, that means that you have a chemical sun protection product. And in my opinion, I prefer, for me personally, a chemical sun protection product because I like the finish. I like the fact that I don't have the white overcast. I like the fact that the chemical sun protection options that I use, I don't know how to explain it, but I like the formula. I like the way that those feel on my skin compared to a physical mineral. And that's, like I said, that's a personal opinion. And it's usually the personal opinion of darker skin types as well. Because again, they don't love that white overcast that they get. They want something a little bit more aesthetically appealing on darker skin. Um, another type of skin or patient that prefers a chemical is patients that are active. If they're out in the sun and they're sweating or they're out at the pool or they're out at the beach, you want a sweat and water resistant sun protection product. And that is what a chemical sun protection is. But Sam, mine says it's sweat and water resistant and it's all mineral. Mm-mm. Look at those ingredients, girl. You're smarter than that. They're trying to put a little trickery on you. If you look in the ingredients, yes, it probably does have zinc or something mineral in it, but there will be a little chemical ingredient hiding in there. So just keep your eye out. Nothing wrong with it, but just market it as a hybrid. Don't market it as 100% mineral when it's not 100% mineral. I can't stand that. I cannot stand marketing lies. People deserve to know and be able to make the decision of what they do or they don't want to use. Like I said, nothing wrong at all with the chemical sun protection. But if I want to personally for myself not use chemical sun protection ingredients, then I should be able to do that without somebody being sneaky and sticking it in there. Makes me nuts. And that makes people crazy. Like, let's just be completely honest and transparent because that's what like starts weirdness, you know? And look, chemical sun protections have a bad name because of incorrect information or misinformation. Number one, people are so scared of the word chemical. And you shouldn't. Chemical just means organic. That's it. And you know, girl, if I was out here calling it an organic sunscreen, your Baham would be all over it. You know you would. So just calm it down. Okay, everything's a damn chemical. Stop. Okay. Organic, chemical, same thing. Now, there can be some people that have sensitivity to chemical sunscreens. That happens. If you've ever used a sun protection product and it made your eyes water, it's likely a chemical and you are sensitive to it. So you need to stick to physical. That's a real thing. There's a lot of products and ingredients out there that people have sensitivities to. It doesn't mean that everyone on the planet should not use it. It just means you in particular shouldn't use it because you have a sensitivity to it. Now, another, you know, uh issue with chemical sun protection that is out there right now is people saying that it can cause cancer. It's incorrect. There's no scientific scientific evidence out that chemical sunscreens cause cancer. Now, there is incorrect information about it absorbing into the bloodstream. So some chemical sunscreen ingredients can be absorbed into the butt into the bloodstream, but scientific reviews have not linked this systemic absorption to cancer or any other adverse health effects in humans. So again, more incorrect information all over the internet when there's no scientific evidence to back it. Drives me absolutely nuts. Now, I will not take away from the fact that there was a light up recently in the past over some specific aerosol ingredients that were recalled because they contained benzene. Benzene is a known carcinogen, but benzene is not a recognized sunscreen ingredient. As a matter of fact, it was an accident. It shouldn't have been put in at all. So now it's heavily regulated. And if you're unsure, just make sure benzene is nowhere in your chemical sun protection product. Okay. So we've got our sunscreens, physical, chemical. This is what Sam was taught when she went to aesthetician school. But what recently has happened that is making Sam go, what is what I taught? What is what I was taught wrong or incorrect? Well, I will tell you recently I have so what it's here's how it started. It started because there was a scientist that makes videos, and I was tuning in to one of the videos talking about misinformation about chemical sunscreens. And the scientist was sharing their information about, you know, myths and accuracies. And there was one thing that was mentioned that I was kind of like, what? What do you mean? So here's what I am now learning. And again, I don't think it's because I'm teaching or educating everyone incorrectly. I think it's just growth. I think this is a more modern, a more advanced way of educating and explaining. So here's the deal: a small percentage of UV radiation is reflected or scattered by mineral filters, but much, much less than what we were taught. So modern studies demonstrate that both physical and chemical filters primarily work by absorbing UV radiation. This means both physical and chemical absorb. So if you missed this in the beginning, here's the old way. The old way is physical mirror, chemical, a sponge. But now with this information, it's different. It's going to be physical is mostly sponge with just a tiny mirror. And then chemical is going to be completely sponge. What? What? Guys, that's not what we were taught. But it's not like it's black and white or it's so far-fetched. It's just a little bit different than it physically blocks it. No, we're learning now that it doesn't. There's actually a little bit of absorption there. So that little bit of information or that little bit of change in the way that I was taught is now going to completely change how I recommend specific sun protection options. Meaning, before I was telling everybody that had melasma or pigment disorder to completely stay away from chemical because, again, chemical absorbs, converts the rays into heat, and then it's expelled from the body. So naturally, you think, well, if you're holding in this heat, heat is a major pigment trigger. It's also a major inflammation trigger. So it's going to be bad for acne and other inflammatory concerns like rosacea. So we want to keep them on physical mineral, but guys, mineral physical is also absorbing as well. So now I am so excited to share this information. Like I just want to get it out. I want people to know that you can use a chemical sun protection. The the at the end of the day, this is the most important part of everything. Whether my view or my education on this topic changes or evolves or grows, the bottom line of this is to find a sun protection product that you like so you will use it. Whether it's chemical, physical, whether it's tinted, whether it's sheer, whether it's hydrating, whether it's in your you've got to use your sun protection and protect your skin's largest organ. At the bottom line, end of the day, that's what needs to happen. Okay, what's another thing that Sam is learning now since she's in there doing all this investigating? Guys, we're not even using the term sun block anymore. Because now we can't say sun block because it's not 100% blocking the rays. So we can't say that. So sunscreen is now described for both physical and chemical sun protection options. You just blow me away here with all this information. And I love it. I love to learn, I love to hear where we're going, what's growing. And this is what happens. We get stuck marinating in what we've learned, right? We, and I always say I remember I'm always teachable, I always want to remain teachable, but it blows my mind that I've gone this long stuck and marinating. And I haven't expanded or dug in or wanted to learn more sooner. But that's why I wanted to bring all of this to you guys because I watch all these videos and I see these providers and we're just acting like it's not existing. But something as huge as sun protection, we need to expand and learn and grow. And listen, I'm not saying that everything we're talking about here is 100% factual and correct. I'd like to think that everything I share with you guys is always going to be factual and correct. And I promise you that I would never share misinformation or incorrect information intentionally. But it should create a conversation for us. It should deepen our desire to want to learn and grow and really picket this and get it out there. So there are some things that I think we do need to talk as fact, right? We can debate on maybe what we've learned as being old, outdated, or new, updated, or that can be, you know, debatable. But what's not debatable is facts that surround sun protection that we need to make sure that we share with our patients or our consumers. So there's a little bit of information that I want to share to make sure that you're using your sun protection correctly. So, number one, if you're treating your whole body with sun protection, you need to use at least one full ounce, which is a shot glass worth for full body coverage. Make sure you're applying about 15 to 20 minutes before you go out into the sun just to make sure that it's evenly applied and absorbed. Also, if you are in direct sunlight, make sure you're reapplying every two hours and immediately after swimming or sweating. Okay. Don't forget commonly missed areas like your ears, your neck, your hands, and your scalp. Y'all, I'm gonna tell you something. I'm probably never, ever, ever gonna forget my scalp after a horrific scalp burn. Um, my husband had this rental car and it was a convertible top. And I was like, we have this car for a week, I'm using the hell out of it. So I literally went everywhere with that damn top down. It was so ridiculous. But one of the days that I went, I had my hair parted down the middle and I had the little braids. And uh, because you know, when you're in a car with no top, your hair's whipping everywhere. So I no, I wasn't doing that. So I parted it and I had braids. So my scalp was exposed where the part was in my hair. And you guys, when I say bad scalp burn, it was so intense. It was not only like just raw, but it was like sensitive to the touch for weeks, like it hurt to touch it and it flaked for the longest time. So protect your scalp. I love powder sun protections for my scalp to make sure that I can get it in there because I know it's hard for people to want to put like liquid in there, but if you're gonna use the powder, make sure you're using enough. Like you can't just do a light dusting, like you're gonna have to do a good bit in there. I like it though, because it's also like dubbing is like a little dry shampoo, too. You get a little freshen up and you get your scalp protected. It's a win-win, right? So let's talk about some other things that I think we need to talk about. All right, number one, the higher the SPF, does that mean the higher the protection? And the answer is no. I have a friend that tells me all the time, I can't believe you only use a 30 and not a 50. 50 is so much better. It's not true, okay? It doesn't matter, just make sure you wear it. So I have a knee up and I need a little sippy sip. All right, so here's the truth. SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB, okay? SPF 50 blocks 98. SPF 100 only blocks 99%. So this increase isn't as dramatic as all of you think. So whether you have a 30, a 50, a 70, a 100, or a 15, just make sure you're using it and you're using it appropriately. Use the right amount, uh, reapply as much as you need to. All right, another issue. Do darker skin types need to wear sunscreen? Hell yes. Okay? It doesn't matter what color you are, every single person can experience pigment disorders. Okay, every single person can experience photo aging, DNA damage, and skin cancer. So absolutely wear your sun protection no matter what color you are. All right. Do chemical sunscreens worsen melasma and acne because of heat? That was another question. That I got when I asked on Instagram, and we just talked about that. I feel victimized is the wrong word, but I feel no, you know what? Shame on me. Shame on me for not digging in sooner or when I had to, because I could have offered this information to my melasma or my acne patient sooner. And I know I'm gonna have some providers that still want to stick to physical only for my melasma, my acne, and my rosacea. I completely respect that. But with this new information that I have, I feel like like I just have to, like I have to share it. Like I want people to know. And I just want you to use a sun protection. I don't care, you know, what kind it is, just use it. And if you start to experience some kind of a sensitivity from it, or you don't feel like it's protecting you as adequately as the physical mineral, then cool, just go back to it. But at this point, I just don't want people being afraid to use it. I don't want this misinformation online to be scaring people into staying away from something that is going to protect you and the people that you love from skin cancer. Okay. Make sure that you are getting your skin checked annually. Okay. Or if you have had skin cancer or you've had something sketchy, your dermatologist or your provider is probably going to recommend that you come in every three to six months to keep an eye on your skin. Don't miss those skin checks. You know, as an aesthetician, it was my job if I see something, say something. And now, since my husband was diagnosed with melanoma, I feel more of a responsibility to make sure that my family, my friends, my loved ones, my patients, people that I help guide with their skin, I've got to make sure that you are taking care of your skin. And you know, really and truly, you all are doing so much to care for your skin. You're spending all this money on skincare products, you're spending all this money on in-office procedures and treatments. It's it's silly not to protect your skin. And I can't stand the fact that you've got these people online saying that like sun protection causes cancer, but then they're turning around and they're like whipping up, you know, their own DIY sunscreen. Girl, are you be so for real? Like, that's okay. Your little kitchen concoction is cool, but something that has been tried and true, tested, it's been used by actual certified clinical professionals. No, no, that's not good. But my kitchen concoction, ma'am, girl. Listen, guys, this is what I want you to take from that. When you're hearing information online, especially when it comes to something as serious as protecting you from skin cancer, make sure, number one, that the person sharing the information with you is credible. Okay. If they're talking about things that have to do with the health of your skin, are they qualified to comment on that? Meaning, are they a doctor? Are they a scientist chemist? Are they a skin health provider, like an aesthetician? Because your influencer that is a stay-home mama that is just recommending things to get some extra money, not saying there's anything wrong with that, but that's not the person that I'm going to take advice from. It's just the same as I see these influencers recommending heart supplements or diabetes supplements or supplements to treat chronic skin issues or chronic chronic health issues. They're not qualified to be doing that. So make sure that the person that's sharing the information is credible. And if they are, don't stop there. Challenge the information. Okay. Challenge the information by looking at other credible sources to see if it lines up and links up. And then if you're not sure, you always need to have someone that you trust, patient and provider alike. If you're a patient, you've got to find a provider that you trust and turn off the rest of the noise. Find a provider that you 100% know and trust. And that's who you need to listen to. When the other stuff comes on, just scroll. Okay. Because that's what's going to start to mess you up. You're going to start to get, you know, conflicting information, conflicting um suggestions, and that's what's going to make you just not trust anybody or anything. Stick to what you know and who you trust. And same thing with the provider. If there's information that you're receiving that you're unsure of, get with another provider that you trust. Another provider that shares the same treatment objectives as you, that has the same type of um, you know, treatment goals as you. And that's who you need to confide in and consult with. That's the person that you need to work with. There's just, like I said, there's so much misinformation, and it's easy for us to get lost in the sauce. Don't always keep a level head. Make sure that the person that's sharing information is credible. And if they are, challenge it and challenge it with providers that you know and you trust. All right, guys, that's where we're gonna end today. But I do want to continue the conversation. There's a couple things that I'd like to hear back from you. Number one, I want to know what you think. What do our, what these aestheticians out there, what do we think about this new information? I mean, what does this mean about our My Lady book? Okay. What do you think? Do you agree with it? Do you think it's misinformation? Do you think it's just growing and evolving? Or are you like, girl, I don't even care. I'm gonna stick to my old way of thinking. I want to know what you think. Second, is there a provider or a credible source that you would like to hear from? If there's someone that you think has a good space to speak on this subject, I would love to continue this conversation. So share any guest suggestions with me. I will reach out to them. I can't promise anything, but I would love to know who you want to hear from because just little old me here today. But I want to continue this conversation to help grow our knowledge and expand this industry with the right information so we can equip patients and consumers with correct, factual, scientifically backed information. All right, guys, that's all I've got for you today. Take care. Wear your SPF.

unknown 28:20

Bye, guys.

SPEAKER_00 28:21

Think of this introvert as your aesthetics roundtable, not a training manual. This podcast is for professional education and discussion. It's not medical advice. Your scope of practice matters, regulations vary, and your license always leads. To continue the conversation, follow the skintrovert on Apple, Spotify, or any platform that you listen to your podcast.